Valandre Blog

Artificial rock climbing

Opening the “ZEITGEIST” route. Romania winter 2012.

The winter 2012 saw here in Europe, polar cold decent from Siberia covering the western European continent completely. Heavy snow blocked road transportations all over Europe, and temperatures hit serious negative values.

In the north east of Romania, there is a gorge called Bicaz and in this gorge, there is a face called “Hells neck”. In the days of February 15 to 22, Emil Camerzan and Leslie Fucsko, opened a new route named “ZEITGEIST” – A German word for “TIMESPIRIT”. Briefly it’s 420m of overhanging limestone, with 11 pitches of artificial climbing and 2 pitches of A4, some free climbing and two pitches of alpine mix at the end of the route.

The perfect conditions to test the articulated Immelman concept down jacket, as it is designed to perform in these, technical climbing conditions. And the holy ghost, sprayed freezing conditions of daytime -10°/15°C  (15°/5°F) and night time -20°/26°C (-5°/15°F), on these 420m (1377 ft) overhanging limestone, allowing a serious field test.

Leslie and Emil exited the 420m (1377 ft) overhanging route after 7 days. And as they did not report having a cold at the exit, we presume that the Immelman did well in the daytime once needed, and that the Lafayette and Mirage, allowed them to rest well at night.

Hats off to Emil and Leslie, for this remarkable artificial winter climb.

 

 

 The Directissime of the Concave

High altitude – no ox – in alpine style, is our passion, but in alpinism you find an ocean of different passionate directions. In the south of France (Marseille region), local climbers “train” in the Calanques. And to these climbers, the Calanques natually have it’s Eiger Nordwand, or El Cap: “La directissime de la Concave”. This unique line, offers a 35m (115ft) overhang out of 90m (295ft) with a total height of 135m (443ft). This route/line was opened in 1966 by G Livanos and M Vaucher. French cotations: L1:IV; L2: A2, L3: A2; L4: A1; L5: A1/IV+. The pitons are the original from 1966….a bit rusty….but that’s how it is!

Oktober 6th 2011 French climbers Pierre-Olivier Blanc and Paul Regnier, took an early start, and climbed this mystical route, beading in the beautiful autumn sun light of the Calanques in South France. Paul Regnier shot and mixed the video.

————————–———
Haute altitude – pas d’oxygène – dans le style alpin, c’est notre passion, mais dans le domaine de l’alpinisme, vous trouvez de très nombreuses directions toutes aussi passionnantes. Au sud de la France, dans la région de Marseille, des grimpeurs locaux “s’entraînent” dans les Calanques ; et pour ces grimpeurs, les Calanques ont bien sûr aussi leur Eiger Nordwand ou El Cap : “La directissime de la Concave”. Cette voie unique de 35m (115ft), avec un surplomb de 90m (295ft) et une hauteur totale de 135m (443ft) a été ouverte en 1966 par G Livanos et M Vaucher. Cotations françaises : L1:IV; L2 : A2, L3 : A2; L4 : A1; L5 : A1/IV +. Les pitons d’origine datent de 1966…un peu rouillés…mais c’est comme ça !

Le 6 Octobre 2011 : les grimpeurs français, Pierre-Olivier Blanc et Paul Régnier ont pris un premier départ et ont gravi cette voie mytique sous un beau soleil d’automne. Mise en lumière dans les calanques par les vidéos de Paul régnier.

Bookmark and Share