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Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition 2011



Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Ralf Dujmovits Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition 2011 root

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits

Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition 2011 root

Dear Friends

Apologies for not having been in touch for such a long time but the last few months were packed with presentations, endurance training and a two-week climbing holiday in Croatia, during which I also had the time to recharge my batteries.

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La voie Fourastier à la Point du Vallon de Etages

La voie Fourastier à la Point du Vallon de Etages

Retour en montagne pour une magnifique course sauvage et authentique dans cette face nord avec Paul. Départ à 3h du mat’ de la Bérarde pour le vallon des Etages. Le deux chemins qui montent du pont se rejoignent à l’entrée du vallon et ne vont guère au delà de 2000 m d’altitude. L’accès au haut du vallon et au glacier est hors sentier, puis sur neige durcie par le regel nocturne.

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Climbing the “Cassin” on Denali | a solitary journey

Cosmin AndronCosmin Andron

Climbing the “Cassin” on Denali – Photo Galery Here

It’s been snowing for days and I am going bonkers at the Ski Hill (NE Fork) camp (cca 2400 m alt.). Tent bound since the 13th of June I start doubting I’d be able to get on the “Cassin” on this trip and I’m getting sure my acclimatization is wearing out by the hour now… I’ve listened to my music, I’ve read my books, I’ve weighted my options all the while the snow was incessantly falling…

Then it’s 20th morning and the sun is shining and the skies are clear. Mark, back at KIA, mentioned something about a break in the weather for the weekend and I guess this must be it. I am weighting my options: go light – no tent, no sleeping bag just the stove, my Sirius down jacket and compressor pants and some bars and gels. Or plan for a three days ascent and go heavy: tent, sleeping bag, food, haul line in case I need to pull my bag, some cams and screws in case I need an anchor… It’s all about weight and weighting my options.

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Start pt Cassin | Start on the Cassin

“There are always a multitude of reasons on a big mountain for not going on but the most powerful, the one which decides above all others, is the lack of will.” Joe Tasker

RO: Rontai un morcov! Si o bucata de paine. :) Fabulos!

Mic dejun: omleta de 3 oua cu rosii, ardei si multa paine :)

Ieri dupa-masa Marius si Teo  au fost pana la KIA Base Camp si pachetul de la Tom fusese livrat. Nu gasise tot ce era pe lista dar o parte din alimente tot au ajuns: 12 oua, o paine mica, biscuiti, ciocolata, lapte, zahar, alune, un gogosar, un morcov, un castravete, 4 rosii, 2 mere… Baietii s-au ales cu o bucata de sunca, niste lipii si o sticla de whisky.

EN: I’m chewing on a carrot! And on a loaf of bread! :) Fabulous!

Breakfast: scrambled eggs (3), tomatoes, peppers and loats of fresh bread! :)

Yesterday afternoon Marius and Teo went to KIA Base Camp and the parcel from Tom has been delivered. He did not find everything on the list but at least he found some of it: a dozen eggs, a loaf of bread, biscuits, chocolate, milk, sugar, peanuts,  couple of peppers, four tomatoes, a cucumber… And the boys got some ham, some pita bread and a bottle of whisky…

RO: Aseara a inceput din nou sa ninga si s-a incalzit foarte mult – adica suficient cat sa transforme ninsoarea in lapovita. Prognoza meteo via KIA/NPS indica imbunatatire in conditiile meteo incepand de azi. Mark Westman si Jesse ? au pornit ieri dupamasa spre E Fork pentru a intra in Traseul Slovac.

EN: Last evening it started snowing again then temperature rose, enough to transform it in sleet. The weather forecast via KIA/NPS suggests an improvement starting with today. Mark Westman and Jesse ? left yesterday to the E Fork for the Slovak Route.

RO: Dupa schimbarea (incalzirea) in vreme de ieri, azi noapte, la 11:12 pm altimetrul arata 2345m alt (GPS 2327m alt), barometrul 764 hPa, temperatura in cort +1.2 grade Celsius, temperatura afara -3 grade Celsius.

EN: After the change (warming) in weather yesterday, last night, at 11:12 pm the altimeter was showing 2345m alt (GPS 2327m alt), the barometer was showing 764 hPa, the temperature in tent was +1.2 centigrades and outside -3 centigrades.

RO: Acum, 1:31pm altimetrul arata 2310m alt (GPS 2327m alt), barometrul arata 766 hPa, temperatura este peste 0 grade Celsius si cerul senin.

Peste 20 de minute pornesc spre Cassin, sper sa intru maine in traseu si sa I’ll termin pana pe 25 iunie si sa pot cobora la NE Fork Camp pana pe 26-27 iunie.

EN: Now, at 1:31pm the altimeter shows 2310m alt (GPS 2327m alt), barometer shows 766hPa, the temperature is above 0 centigrades and the sky is clear.

In 20 minutes i’m leaving for the Cassin. I hope to get oon it tomorrow and finish it before the 25th then descend back to the NE Fork by the 27th or 28th.

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