There are 14 8000 meter summits in the world, and 12 of them have been climbed in winters, only Nanga Parbat and K2 still stand unclimbed.
Mountaineers are attempting to climb Nanga Parbat since 1988, which makes 27 years to the date. More or less 27 expeditions have tested their limits on Nanga Parbat in winter, and none of them could reach the summit of Nanga Parbat. A lot of questions rise: what makes Nanga different from other 8000ers? Why is it still unclimbed in winter? When Mount Everest can be climbed in winter, why can’t be Nanga Parbat? Over the years, the mountaineers who tested themselves on Nanga in winter have answered these questions.
Nanga was attempted first time in winter 1988-1989 by Polish team. The team was lead by Maciej Berbeka himself, who had made several first ascents in Himalaya (Nepal). Maciej was astonished after looking at conditions on Nanga; he said everything is cruel on this mountain and conditions in Western Himalaya are way worst in winter, “blue ice, lower temperature, faster winds and less weather windows.” The highest altitude reached by Poles was 6800 meter.
Continue reading “Nanga Parbat: The Crown of Western Himalaya still stands untouched in winter” »
Nanga Parbat 8125m (26.657ft) was climbed July 3th 1953 by Herman Buhl (Austria). This mountain situated in Pakistan is one of the harder peaks. The normal route is not extremely technical, but Nanga is famous for bad weather. Together with K2, it remains the last 8000 peak that has never been climbed in winter.
During the winter 2014, Daniele Nardi (Italy) and Elisabeth Revol (France) made an impressing attempt to open a new direct route, in a pure alpine style without the help of porters, oxygen and fixed ropes. Despite passing the technically most difficult parts of the climb, Daniele and Elisabeth “burned out” at their bivi, basically due to the extreme cold. But they showed that they know how to tackle a direct line on a Nanga Winter.
A couple of weeks ago, Elisabeth contacted Valandré to inform, that they will return in January 2015 for a new attempt. The lessons from Nanga 2014 in mind, we decided to give them a full backing so they can recover and resist the extreme cold. Obviously if they can’t resist the freezing conditions during the day and night time, they can’t make it.
So we at Valandre have one month to get an optimized down solution, ready for Daniele and Elisabeth. And we will do it, Nanga winter in a straight line, non ox and in alpin style rings a bell: Time to get out of your lazy bed boy!
You know what you get, once you get a Valandre Odin expedition bag, but what tent will match it? So we called in US tent maker SlingFin for the gear test at the Chamonix Mountain Festival. And to match the SlingFin SafeHouse2 tent (3883g with Alu poles, 3688g with Carbon poles), we threw in a “SUPER SIZED” Shocking Blue: The Odin NEO (1679g), and the MAXIMIZER: the Thor NEO (1951g)!
There are only six places available! so email us
The price: only €50 per person and an option to buy your Valandre sleeping bag at production price.
If you require accommodation through the UCPA, just email us – to help with the UCPA administration and take advantage of a discounted rate.
If you also would like to take part in the Festival, book the whole week here!