Hello wild wild world!
Valandre© is a producer of high altitude down sleeping bags and jackets for extreme expeditions on high mountains, based in the French Pyrenees.

K2 is, as we all know, a mountain that has haunted climbers since the first expedition attempts. “The savage mountain”, has always resisted as if no man was allowed to enter it’s domain. Human tragedy is deeply rooted in it’s image, forcing climbers to take every little event into serious consideration: You just do not fool around with the BIG SCARY BROWNIE.

In the April issue of NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 2012, a brilliant article describes the International Amical Alpin climb of this big pile of rock and ice. Rightly they based the assent from the North side (North pillar), properly offering more stable conditions.

Naturally one could look at this climb, as the last in the line of Gerlindes 14 non ox climbs. It is, but it’s also a bit more: This climb represent a human manifestation of outmost will, determination, faith and profound trust. Confronted by this, K2 opened up the closed door and offered 15min to Gerlinde alone on top. No wind, Sun down light from a clear blue sky and surrounded below by all the 8000 she had formerly climbed in the area. An alpine blessing on her final 8000.

READ THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC K2 ARTICLE HERE

Once again K2 has spoken……but this time using a sweet language.

 

Climbing in the Val Vierge zone of the Calanques

Val Vierge – Escalade dans les Calanques

Val Vierge – rock climbing in the Calanques in South France. Another amazing film made by Paul Régnier who shows the different aspects of climbing in this range. For decades climbers from Marseille have measured their talents on these cliffs . The GIP (The Public Interest Group) who’s aim is to prepare the future National Park of the Calanques, have decided to create a major integrated reserved zone, forbidden for climbing. Once again our space is restrained, by decisions by deciders who do not really know the Calanques. The climbers pronounced IN FAVOUR of the creation of a National Park, and they have even initiated it. But if they ARE in favor of the protection of this natural environment, they are not willing to accept displaced prohibitions, which do not serve the major interest of the Calanques.

Val Vierge – Escalade dans les Calanques. Un autre film intéressant de Paul Régnier qui nous nous montre différents aspects de l’escalade dans ce massif. Depuis des décennies, les grimpeurs marseillais ont mesurés leur talent sur ces falaises. Le GIP (groupement d’intérêt public) dont le but est de préparer le futur parc national des calanques, a décidé la création de vastes zones de réserves intégrales interdites à l’escalade. Une fois de plus notre espace se restreint, par la décision de décideurs qui ne connaissent pas véritablement les calanques. Les grimpeurs se sont prononcés POUR la création d’un parc national. Ils en sont même à l’initiative. Mais si ils veulent la sauvegarde de cet espace naturel, ils ne se soumettent pas à des interdictions déplacées et qui ne répondent pas aux enjeux majeurs des calanques.

The Directissime of the Concave

High altitude – no ox – in alpine style, is our passion, but in alpinism you find an ocean of different passionate directions. In the south of France (Marseille region), local climbers “train” in the Calanques. And to these climbers, the Calanques natually have it’s Eiger Nordwand, or El Cap: “La directissime de la Concave”. This unique line, offers a 35m (115ft) overhang out of 90m (295ft) with a total height of 135m (443ft). This route/line was opened in 1966 by G Livanos and M Vaucher. French cotations: L1:IV; L2: A2, L3: A2; L4: A1; L5: A1/IV+. The pitons are the original from 1966….a bit rusty….but that’s how it is!

Oktober 6th 2011 French climbers Pierre-Olivier Blanc and Paul Regnier, took an early start, and climbed this mystical route, beading in the beautiful autumn sun light of the Calanques in South France. Paul Regnier shot and mixed the video.

Continue reading “The Directissime of the Concave” »

Billi Bierling - Germany

“Billli, where exactly are you?” Russell called me over the radio. “I am about 10 minutes away from the real summit,” I replied from the point everyone calls the “rock tower”. I had been climbing for exactly eight hours and as Russell was determined that I should make it back down to Camp II after the summit, he wanted me to hurry up. Most of my climbing mates, who had been using supplementary oxygen, had already made it back down to Camp IV, where they were re-hydrating and getting ready to descend to the safer altitudes of Camp II. “I am already on my way down to base camp,” I heard Herbert say over the radio, who probably could not wait to get some proper food after hardly having eaten for three days.

Continue reading “Billi Bierling Germany summits Manaslu. Her first without O2 and her first with Valandre!” »

August 23, 2011 — Liberty Mountain, a leading independent distributor of technical outdoor products and climbing brands in the U.S., is pleased to announce its partnership with Valandré.  Starting immediately, Liberty Mountain will offer Valandré’s line of high end technical down products.

The French company is a high-end manufacturer of down sleeping bags and outerwear for mountaineers and alpinists, such as the Austrian female climber, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, who has just become the first woman to successfully climb all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks without the use of bottled oxygen.

“Climbing to these heights without supplementary oxygen requires down gear that offers extreme warmth and better insulation due to reduced blood circulation. We are proud that Gerlinde has summitted K2 (North pillar – Japanese route), the second highest mountain in the world and her 14^th 8,000er without supplemental oxygen, wearing our Valandré Combi,” said Niels Friisbol  – President, Valandré.

Continue reading “Liberty Mountain and Valandré Form US Partnership.” »