Valandre Blog

8th August 2011 – International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Brief Update 8th August 2011 :

After an exhausting ascent and a lot of fixing work, the K2 team spent two nights at around 8,000m, which was necessary due to the constant snowfall (about 30cm). They are currently trying to get back to Camp III and then to base camp, where they are planning to rest for a few days. We are expecting the next detailed newsletter by midweek.

Warm Regards

Gerlinde Ralf and the whole team

© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits; TRANSLATION: Elke Luginsland

Darek Zaluski in CII on the North Pillar of K2, testing the GOLD awarded Immelman jacket.

Camp II – Darek Zaluski (Poland)

Darek Zaluski in CII on the North Pillar of K2

Testing the GOLD awarded Immelman jacket.

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Help Jeff Lowe

US Icone climber Jeff Lowe came to the OR Show, crippled in his wheelchair, but spirits as high as his reputation. Jeff presented the remaining’s of his backpack, left behind after his remarkable solo on the North Face of Eiger in the winter 1991. Jeff opened a new route over the course of 9 days: a direct shoot up the middle of the north face called “Metanoia”.

US Icone climber Jeff Lowe came to the OR Show

US Icone climber Jeff Lowe came to the OR Show

Lowe’s 20-year-old pack and gear on display at OR

At the exit of the route, Jeff had to be heliported from the summit, and hence left his back pack below at his last biwi. On march 25 this year, Josh Wharton spend over two hour’s digging Jeff’s backpack out of the snow.  The contains of the backpack was on display at this years OR summer show at the Liberty Mountain booth: 10009.

Climbing is a community, so we inform that Jeff wants to produce a film, and there can be no doubt that this movie will be interesting for all of us, who are addicted to mountaineering. However, Jeff needs funding, so we invite everybody to check out their new website, that has been ON for two days now: www.JeffLoweMovie.com.

 

Jeff Lowe’s Pack Retrieved from Eiger North Face from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

 

Jeff Lowe opens his backpack 20 years later from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

 

Ogden Climbing Parks Customer Receipt/Purchase Confirmation

So we passed the hat around and collected $102.25. Some gave $20 some 5, everybody gave what they could. You too can pass the hat around: In your climbing club, in your store, in your company…….

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5th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

5th Newsletter  International K2 North Pillar Expedition

5th Newsletter – International K2 North Pillar Expedition

When we were still on the mountain about a week ago, Charly had told us that we would have to deal with pretty bad weather for the coming days. With this in mind, we decided get some rest and breath some ‘thicker’ air at our Chinese Base Camp, which the locals call “Sughet Jungal”, at 3,850m. “Sughet Jungal” means virgin forest or jungle with bushes and that is exactly how we remembered it from our first few days of the expedition.

We had left our personal tents as well as the mess and kitchen tents pitched in the middle of these beautiful meadows, bushes and small creeks as we had expected to come back to recharge our batteries down there. After having spent more than four weeks at the rocky and barren Italy Base Camp at the edge of the K2 glacier, it was great to get down.

Continue reading “5th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2” »

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4th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

4th Newsletter Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition

4th Newsletter Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition

We spent another five days and four nights at high camps on the mountain. Last night we came back to our advanced base camp, tired but also very content. We left from our advanced base camp on 19th July after a forecast of at least six days of good weather.

Bad weather brought continuous snowfall and heavy fog from our deposit camp onwards, which left us doubting our plans on arrival at Camp I. The climb across the glacier — with lots of crevasses and several falls (no injuries) — didn’t make it any easier for us. Over night the sky cleared and so we started on 20th July at 5:30 am.

 

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2nd Report – Int. K2 expedition to the North Pillar of K2 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits

 

The red dots show our route and what we are up to 7 July cameBild 21 von 21

The red dots show our route and what we are up to 7 July cameBild 21 von 21

2nd Newsletter of the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits

On Friday afternoon, 08th July, After four exciting, beautiful but also exhausting days, we returned to our advanced base camp (ABC) at the lower part of the K2 north pillar on Friday afternoon (8th July). We are now planning to rest at this camp, which is also called ‘Italy Base Camp’ (4,650m), for a few days and are hoping to get a break in this extremely changeable weather here. Since we arrived at the Chinese Base Camp (3,900m), a lot has happened.

Continue reading “2nd Report – Int. K2 expedition to the North Pillar of K2 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits” »

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