Valandre Blog

Nanga Parbat winter 2016 and the C25 SUPER COMBI

The International Rubber Duck Team

 

Huey, Dewey, and Louie

Huey, Dewey, and Louie

 

Ups we almost forgot …

After the return to France of Elisabeth Revol, who was forced to retrieve and decent at 7800m just 300m below the summit of Nanga last winter, we at Valandre realized that our standard Combi suit, had never been designed to confront such brutal conditions.

We know our Combi well that has been key for many successful high altitude non ox expeditions on the 8000, but it reached it’s limit at 7800m on Nanga Parbat in the brutal winter conditions of 2015. We at Valandre was confronted by the challenge to develop the down gear solution for 2016. A simple question of showing a bit of professionalism!

So with the help of Elisabeth we started in the spring, the project of upgrading the performance of the combi, by increasing the baffle height and down load in two versions: +25% and +50%. Both versions was tested by Elisabeth on the Mt Blanc massif in the summer of 2015. Elisabeth concluded that +25% should be enough to do the trick.

Elisabeth is a MINI woman and the Small size combi used in 2015 was too big for her, so we down sized the Small into an Extra Small. And finally to maximize the head protection, we installed the “MESSERSCHMITT storm hood”, which we developed for the IG2 lightweight expedition jacket.

The C25 SUPER COMBI, was then sewed up and filled in an M size for Tomek, and an L size for Arslan. As with high altitude combi technique, the tree C25 SUPER COMBI’s were made in different colors.

Elisabeth Revol with the first C25 SUPER COMBI

Elisabeth Revol with the first C25 SUPER COMBI

A cross check was made to see if the C25 SUPER COMBI would fit into the inside volume of the SHOCKING BLUE NEO, which it did, so we produced 3 SHOCKING BLUE NEO but removed the draft collar. This bag will be used during the climb.

The team received an IG2 down jacket and a THOR NEO for BC as well.

Using the C25 SUPER COMBI eliminates the need for multiple underlayering, and the result is a super light team.

300m left…….Ok lets go!

 

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Nanga Parbat winter 2015/2016

Nanaga Parbat - Rupal side

New Year’s party is starting on Nanga Parbat 2015/16 and the first guest are arriving now.

This will be the 28th year in a row that expeditions will try to tackle the Naked Peak in winter that still stands untouched up until today. Situated in the Karakoram Mountains range in Pakistan, none has ever set foot on the top of Nanga nor K2 in winter due to several factors: Extreme cold conditions, high and strong winds and few weather windows.

This is High altitude alpinism in its purest form, nobody have ever reached these kind of altitudes in the Karakoram, and often expeditions retrieved with severe frost bites. Nobody knows if the human body can resist conditions like this……A steep into the unknown.

NANGA ON THE ROCKS

This winter 5 teams will be in Base Camp attempting to reach the summit:

 

1 – International Team
Nanga Winter 2015/2016- International Team

The International team, attempting to tackle Nanga Parbat this winter, on the Kinshofer route  (classic set up with camps and fixed ropes started) started out as a strong 5 member team: Ferran Latorre and Alex Txikon from Spain, Janusz Golab from Poland, Ali Sadpara from Pakistan and finally Daniel Nardi from Italy.

Before the departure from Europe, Ferran Latorre announced that he would not join the expedition and information on the web announced the 23.12 that Janusz Golab had decides to abandon the team as well.

So The International team is now reduced to a 3 member team: Alex Txikon from Spain, Ali Sadpara from Pakistan and Daniel Nardi from Italy.


2 – Polish – Pakistani Team

Nanga Winter 2015/2016 - Nanga Dream Justice For All

A nine member team including seven climbers from Poland and two Pakistani climbers will attempt the Nanga Parbat from the Rupal Face, Schell Route in a traditional style with fixed ropes and camps.

 

3 – Nanga Revolution
Nanga Winter 2015/2016 - Nanga Revolution

Forth team is “Nanga Revolution” comprising Adam Bielecki (First winter ascent of Broad Peak and G1) and Jacek Czech. They will attempt Kinshofer route in alpine style.

 

4 – The North Face expedition team
Nanga Winter 2015/2016 - The North Face expedition

The North Face are sending in once again, the extremely experienced Simone Moro together with Mrs Tamara Lunger who will attempt her second 8000 in winter (Manaslu 2015). The route selected is the Messner 2000, a route that has never been finished, but they plan to prepare the different camps.

 

 

5 – The rubber duck team
Nanga Winter 2015/2016 - Nanga Light Expedition

Mrs Elisabeth Revol (France), Tomek Mackiewicz (Poland) and Arslan Ahmed Ansari (Pakistan) will equally attempt to climb the Messner 2000 in a pure alpine style. Both Elisabeth and Tomek have several winter attempts behind them on Nanga and are extremely experienced reaching 7800m last year on Messner 2000. This is 300m below the summit and is the second highest winter height record on Nanga ever, and it is at the same time the highest point ever reached on Messner 2000. Straw hat off for the rubber duck team.

 

 

 

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Before we depart for our expedition to K2 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits

 

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovits

Dear Friends

I would like to give you a brief update before we depart for our expedition to K2. On Monday, we were finally able to send our cargo, which was a lot more than usual, as we do not have any stored gear in China.

When I wrote my last newsletter, it was not certain whether our friends from Kazakhstan would join us, so I am now even more than happy to tell you that they will be part of our expedition. Our team is now complete.

 

Continue reading “Before we depart for our expedition to K2 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits” »

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Elisabeth Revol | voie du chourum olympique

Elisabeth Revol Blog : http://himalaya-light.over-blog.com/

Je ne vous fais pas souvent partager mes sorties de ski de rando…, pourtant les ambiances y sont quelques fois « mythiques ». Je vous laisse découvrir un des joyaux du Dévoluy…
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Elisabeth Revol | Dry touffing, dry motting… & dry tooling.

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Elisabeth Revol | Dry touffing, dry motting… & dry tooling.

Après avoir délaissé mon clavier pendant plus de 2 mois… j’arrive enfin à lâcher mes piolets pour vous donner quelques news… l’acide lactique et la lactate étant trop présent dans mes avant bras pour taper sur les touches !!!

La saison de glace a été (j’utilise le passé, car le réchauffement de ces derniers jours est en train de de démolir nombres de joyaux….) tout simplement magnifique. Tout étant formé, les t° largement négative (voir un peu trop même…), et la neige bien présente (là aussi voir un peu trop…).

Continue reading “Elisabeth Revol | Dry touffing, dry motting… & dry tooling.” »

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