Valandre Blog

The 14 peaks over 8000 meters

Only 14 peaks in the world raise up over 8000m into what today is known as “the dead zone”. All are situated in the Himalaya range spread over countries like: Nepal, India, Pakistan and Tibet.

THE WORLD'S HIGHEST PEAKS

The beginning

The first expedition to set foot on a 8000m peak was achieved by a French expedition in June 3th 1950, when the guide Louis Lachenal from Annecy together with Maurice Herzog from Lyon, set foot on the summit of Annapurna. As a first time ever achievement, Lachenal and Herzog climbed the dangerous peak of 8091m without the use of supplemental oxygen. A big French success, as just the logistic problems transporting the gear and equipment from France to Nepal in 1950, was a major and expensive obstacle, to what you can add climbing up into unknown conditions. Maurice Herzog was the first to reach the summit, followed closely by Louis Lachenal, though reaching the summit, and especially without the use of supplemental oxygen, they were forced to pay the price:  Herzog’s decision to opt for lighter boots, and the loss of his gloves near the summit allowed frostbite to set in quickly, resulting in extensive amputations on both hands and both feet.

Maurice Herzog Annapurna Maurice Herzog

What makes the French expedition to Annapurna special is not only the fact that it was the first 8000+ meter peak climbed, it was also the first that was scouted and climbed entirely in one climbing season, a feat not easily repeated, especially in the golden era of mountaineering.

Since Annapurna in 1950, Climbers have learned from the experiences made, and what was in the beginning heavy National expeditions, are now light international “low budget” expeditions. At the end of 2011, only 24 people have climbed all 14 8000, and the latest to join “the club” is Japanese climber Hirotaka Takeushi, who summited his last 8000m peak: Dhaulagiri May 26th at 05:30PM local time.

Alpinism is often infused with the fundamental question of puritanism. In this spirit, climbs being made without the use of supplemental oxygen, nor porters and hence in alpine style, are regarded as the ultimate human engagement confronted with a 8000. And in this game, there are only a small club left of 13 climbers in the world, having completed this achievement.

 

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Before we depart for our expedition to K2 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits

 

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovits

Dear Friends

I would like to give you a brief update before we depart for our expedition to K2. On Monday, we were finally able to send our cargo, which was a lot more than usual, as we do not have any stored gear in China.

When I wrote my last newsletter, it was not certain whether our friends from Kazakhstan would join us, so I am now even more than happy to tell you that they will be part of our expedition. Our team is now complete.

 

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K2 Expedition | The second-highest mountain

North Ridge - The north side of K2

North Ridge - The north side of K2

K2 the second-highest mountain

Altitude 8616m

To the mountaineer, K2 can be regarded as the ‘mountain of mountains’. Its allure arises from the combination of its isolation, extremes of weather, great altitude and technical climbing demands; K2 is a very serious and compelling objective. Our challenging route takes us onto the well documented Abruzzi Spur. This is one of six fine ridges that form a classical summit pyramid of rock and ice.

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Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition 2011

 

 

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Ralf Dujmovits Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition 2011 root

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits

Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition 2011 root

Dear Friends

Apologies for not having been in touch for such a long time but the last few months were packed with presentations, endurance training and a two-week climbing holiday in Croatia, during which I also had the time to recharge my batteries.

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