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The day that K2 surrendered to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

The day that K2 surrendered to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

K2 is, as we all know, a mountain that has haunted climbers since the first expedition attempts. “The savage mountain”, has always resisted as if no man was allowed to enter it’s domain. Human tragedy is deeply rooted in it’s image, forcing climbers to take every little event into serious consideration: You just do not fool around with the BIG SCARY BROWNIE.

In the April issue of NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 2012, a brilliant article describes the International Amical Alpin climb of this big pile of rock and ice. Rightly they based the assent from the North side (North pillar), properly offering more stable conditions.

Naturally one could look at this climb, as the last in the line of Gerlindes 14 non ox climbs. It is, but it’s also a bit more: This climb represent a human manifestation of outmost will, determination, faith and profound trust. Confronted by this, K2 opened up the closed door and offered 15min to Gerlinde alone on top. No wind, Sun down light from a clear blue sky and surrounded below by all the 8000 she had formerly climbed in the area. An alpine blessing on her final 8000.

READ THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC K2 ARTICLE HERE

Once again K2 has spoken……but this time using a sweet language.

 

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Meet the Kaiser and his highly respectable Kaiserin

Mr Ralf Dujmovits & Mrs Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner | ISPO WINTER 2012

Old friendships are important, so I had the pleasure to meet with Ralf Dujmovits who introduced me to his new wife Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner at the 2012 winter ISPO show in Munich. Ralf reached his last 8000m peak (Lhotse) in 2009 and became the first German on the 14 8000 and number 16 in the line:

1989 — Nuptse NW ridge
1996 — Nuptse Northpillar
1990 — Dhaulagiri
1992 — Mt Everest (supplemental oxygen)
1993 — Baruntse
1994 — K2
1995 — Cho Oyu
1998 — Cho Oyu
1996 — Shisha Pangma
1997 — Shisha Pangma
1999 — Broad Peak
2000 — Gasherbrum II
2001 — Nanga Parbat
2009 — Lhotse

Ralf is a strong and dedicated DAV Guide, and his record contains numerous successful expeditions, guiding clients to a 8000m summit. A true pillar in German High Altitude climbing, and a great man.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is a Austrian climber, out of the “old school”, extremely attached and sensitive to the notion of “The mountain”. August 2011 Gerlinde and Ralf engaged a climb of the Japanese route of the North Pillar of K2. Here Gerlinde summited her final 8000m peak and became the first woman to complete the 8000m without supplemental oxygen:

1998 — Cho Oyu,
2001 — Makalu,
2002 — Manaslu,
2003 — Nanga Parbat,
2004 — Annapurna I,
2004 — Gasherbrum I,
2005 — Shisha Pangma,
2005 — Gasherbrum II,
2006 — Kangchenjunga,
2007 — Broad Peak,
2008 — Dhaulagiri,
2009 — Lhotse,
2010 — Mount Everest,
2011 — K2.

A full report of the K2 climb 2011, will be published in a 32 page report in NATIONAL GEOGRAFIC, translated and published worldwide, and due to appear in April 2012.

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21 August 2011 – International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Brief Update 21 August 2011 [Camp IV]:

Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassiliy and Darek reached Camp IV (about 8,000m) at 4.30pm this afternoon. The weather was perfect the whole day, however, they had to break trail in deep snow. Their equipment is dry and the weather forecast is looking good for tomorrow. They are all in good spirits and are feeling pretty confident about their summit attempt.

Please, continue to keep your fingers crossed!

 

Brief Update 7:30 pm ( Local Time)

The team has decided not to go for the summit tomorrow but to fix the traverse from the camp to the Japanese couloirs. They also want to check out the snow conditions in the couloirs due to expected snowdrifts.

They are planning on having a “rest day” tomorrow and try for the summit on Tuesday. The weather forecast remains good, also for Tuesday.

Warm Regards

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team

© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits

AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten

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19 August 2011 – International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Brief Update, 19 August 2011 – Camp II (6,600 m):

After the four climbers had spent a very exhausting night in a small bivouac tent on the rocky shoulder between Camp I and Camp II, Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassily and Darek reached Camp II at 3.30pm Chinese time.

The conditions were extremely difficult and they had to wade through hip-deep snow in some parts. Snow conditions and trail breaking permitting, they will be climbing to Camp III (ca. 7,250 m) tomorrow.

Tommy Heinrich and Ralf Dujmovits have arrived at base camp safe and sound.

Warm Regards

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team

© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits ; TRANSLATION: Billi Bierling

AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten

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18 August 2011 – International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Brief Update 18 August 2011 :

Since about midnight last night until 4.30pm Chinese time, it has been snowing with only two hours of interruption. Gerlinde’s team is making very slow progress and are planning to bivouac on the rocky shoulder, which is situated about half way up to Camp II. Due to high avalanche danger, Ralf Dujmovits abandoned his K2 summit attempt at the bottom of the couloirs and returned to Camp I.

Brief Update 4.30pm (GMT)

Gerlinde and the rest of the team arrived at the rocky shoulder between Camp I and Camp II and will be spending the night in a small tent there. Four members of the team are planning to ascend to Camp II tomorrow. In the late afternoon, Tommy Heinrich also descended to Camp I and will be going down to base camp with Ralf.

Warm Regards

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team

© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits

AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten

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