Valandre Blog

Everest Spring 2017

Ueli and Tenji’s Non Ox Marathon in the dead zone of Everest. Ralf on the North side and Arakawa in the fixed ropes…

Mountaineering is a transient experience. I need to continuously repeat it to live it. Ueli Steck

Ueli Steck accompagnied by Tenji Sherpa are now in the Everest Base Camp preparing to climb up to C1 at 6400m, and lace on the booths.

From C1 Ueli Steck and Tenji Sherpa will try to shoot up the Hornbein route in one go to the summit of Everest 8848m, then decent the normal route down to the South Col to spend the night in a bivouac at 8000m.

The second part of their “double shoot” is then to climb up to the summit of Lhotse 8511m via the Denis Urubko variation couloir, and then decent from Lhotse directly to C1 at 6400m.

Let’s just hope that Ueli Steck and Tenji Sherpa will not get trapped in a traffic jam from the Everest summit and down to the South Col. But if they summit at the same time as the other commercial expeditions (that can include ARAKAWA ICI SPORTS JAPAN), it will just be to follow the slow “flow” down……so no need to “honk the horn”.

With a bit of luck, Ueli Steck and Tenji Sherpa can summit at the same time as Ralf Dujomovitz, is supposed to reach the summit from the North Side non ox.


Ueli Steck is completely equipped by Valandre as is Ralf and Arakawa.

Here is the plan:
-> From Base camp (5365m) ascend to Camp1 (6400m)
-> Climb the Hornbein Couloir
-> summit Mount Everest (8848m)
-> descend to the South Col (8000m) climb another couloir (Denis Urubko’ variation)
-> summit Lhotse (8511m)
-> descend to Camp 2 via the standard route and then continue through the Khumbu Icefall (6400m)
-> return to Base Camp (5365m).

Ueli’s partner:
for this project will be Tenji Sherpa with whom he already climbed Cholatse’s North face (6440m) in Nepal and the Eiger/Mönch/Jungfrau traverse in the European Alps. They spent time together in February to train and acclimate sessions in the Khumbu Valley. Tenji sherpa is part of a new generation of Sherpas looking to make their mark as alpinists.

Tenji Sherpa and Ueli Steck in Lukla

The crux of this new project will not really be the technical difficulty of the traverse, but the extremely high altitude and how the body will respond after spending so much time in such an oxygen-starved environment.

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