Valandre Blog

23 August 2011 – Start towards the Summit – International K2 Expedition

Bivouc - Japanese Couloir

Bivouc - Japanese Couloir

 

23 August, 2011 – Start towards the Summit

After Gerlinde, Vassiliy, Maxut and Darek had spent an icy and bittercold night at 8,300m, they were getting ready for a 1am start in their cramped bivouac. Shortly after their departure at about 1.30am, they started having problems with their hands due to the intense cold. Even though the gradient above the bivouac is ‘only’ 45° – the climbers still have to stand on their forefeet most of the time. This reduces the blood circulation and with temperatures of -25°C leads to very cold feed.

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22 August 2011 – Latest news from K2 North Pillar Expedition

Ascent CIV - Japanese Couloir

Ascent CIV – Japanese Couloir

 

Latest news from K2-North-Pillar-Expedition

Yesterday evening, our four friends took the difficult decision to use today as a rest and fixing day. They spent a very cold night at 8000 m and this morning at 6:30 a.m. they started to fix some rope along the traverse into the Japanese Couloirs and further up this couloirs.

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7th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

 

7th Report – the International K2 Expedition

Tommy has a close look to Vassily's totally destroyed tent.

Dear Friends

At midday today, I was finally able to talk to Gerlinde. She said that the wind had still been very strong and that Vassiliy, Maxut, Darek and herself had just reached a point above Camp III. At about two-thirds up the very steep bit directly on the pillar after Camp III, they had been wading through huge amounts of fresh snow and snowdrifts. They all sounded well, however, they were quite exhausted due to the strong winds.

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5th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

5th Newsletter – International K2 North Pillar Expedition

5th Newsletter – International K2 North Pillar Expedition

When we were still on the mountain about a week ago, Charly had told us that we would have to deal with pretty bad weather for the coming days. With this in mind, we decided get some rest and breath some ‘thicker’ air at our Chinese Base Camp, which the locals call “Sughet Jungal”, at 3,850m. “Sughet Jungal” means virgin forest or jungle with bushes and that is exactly how we remembered it from our first few days of the expedition.

We had left our personal tents as well as the mess and kitchen tents pitched in the middle of these beautiful meadows, bushes and small creeks as we had expected to come back to recharge our batteries down there. After having spent more than four weeks at the rocky and barren Italy Base Camp at the edge of the K2 glacier, it was great to get down.

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4th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

4th Newsletter Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition

4th Newsletter Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition

We spent another five days and four nights at high camps on the mountain. Last night we came back to our advanced base camp, tired but also very content. We left from our advanced base camp on 19th July after a forecast of at least six days of good weather.

Bad weather brought continuous snowfall and heavy fog from our deposit camp onwards, which left us doubting our plans on arrival at Camp I. The climb across the glacier — with lots of crevasses and several falls (no injuries) — didn’t make it any easier for us. Over night the sky cleared and so we started on 20th July at 5:30 am.

 

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