{"id":458,"date":"2011-08-20T22:09:32","date_gmt":"2011-08-20T21:09:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/?p=458"},"modified":"2011-08-20T22:11:05","modified_gmt":"2011-08-20T21:11:05","slug":"7th-report-international-k2-expedition-north-pillar-k2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/2011\/08\/20\/7th-report-international-k2-expedition-north-pillar-k2\/","title":{"rendered":"7th Report \u2013 the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_459\" style=\"width: 485px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4733R.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-459\" class=\"size-full wp-image-459\" title=\"7th Report &ndash; the International K2 Expedition \" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"7th Report &ndash; the International K2 Expedition\" width=\"475\" height=\"316\" data-original=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4733R.jpg\"><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-459\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tommy has a close look to Vassily's totally destroyed tent.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Dear Friends<\/strong><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>At midday today, I was finally able to talk to Gerlinde. She said that the wind had still been very strong and that Vassiliy, Maxut, Darek and herself had just reached a point above Camp III. At about two-thirds up the very steep bit directly on the pillar after Camp III, they had been wading through huge amounts of fresh snow and snowdrifts. They all sounded well, however, they were quite exhausted due to the strong winds.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>After the four of them had spent a very long and tiring night in a small tent on the rocky shoulder between Camp I and II, they were able to dry stuff like gloves and downsuits (not their inner boots though). They are hoping to reach Camp III not too late in the afternoon in order to get ready for the long and exhausting trip to Camp IV tomorrow. I am hoping to get more news at about 6pm our time.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1008%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"DSCN1008&copy;R.Dujmovits Maxut wird von Gerlinde (rechts au&szlig;erhalb des Bilds) &uuml;ber eine schneebrett-gef&auml;hrliche Querung gesichert. Gerlinde belays Maxut over a traverse with potential slab avalanche danger \" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"185\" height=\"140\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1008%C2%A9R-166x125.jpg\"><\/a>&nbsp; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1006%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"DSCN1006&copy;R.Dujmovits Die ersten Meter nach Lager 1 im Aufstieg zum Einstiegscouloir. Tiefer Neuschnee macht das Vorankommen sehr langsam. The first meters after Camp 1 towards the beginning of the Starting-Couloir. Deep fresh snow makes progress very slow.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"187\" height=\"140\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1006%C2%A9R-166x125.jpg\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1012%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"DSCN1012&copy;R.Dujmovits Seilgesichert folgt Darek Maxut in einer schneebrettgef&auml;hrlichen Passage zum Beginn des Einstiegscouloirs. Roped-up Darek follows Maxut through a passage with potential slab avalanche danger to the entry of the couloirs\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"182\" height=\"138\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1012%C2%A9R-166x125.jpg\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Tommy and I descended from Camp I to base camp yesterday. Assessing the danger of snow or slab avalanches is very subjective. New snow is only part of the deal. Snowdrifts, gradient and shape of the slope,nature of the soil and the amount of snow that had fallen during the previous days and some other factors should be considered when assess avalanche danger. However, in places without avalanche warnings, there are only two things: your assessment and your gut feeling &ndash; and both are different for everyone, depending on experience. I was no longer happy up there and my gut feeling said &ldquo;No&rdquo; &ndash; and I knew that I had to go down.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1022%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"DSCN1022&copy;R.Dujmovits Tommy versucht nach den heftigen Neuschneef&auml;llen aus einer der vielen verdeckten Spalten herauszukommen. Tommy gets out of the many crevasses which where hidden after heavy snowfall.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"166\" height=\"125\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1022%C2%A9R-166x125.jpg\"><\/a>&nbsp; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1027%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"DSCN1027&copy;R.Dujmovits Tommy schwer beladen auf dem Weg von Lager I zurueck ins Basislager Tommy heavily loaded on our way back from Camp I to Basecamp\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"166\" height=\"125\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DSCN1027%C2%A9R-166x125.jpg\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Gerlinde, Vassili, Maxut and Darek assessed the situation a little bit differently &ndash; and it seems that their gut feeling was also right. I hope that they will make it and every single metre of progress in these difficult conditions makes me very happy. However, I am still very worried.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4703%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\" _K2A4703&copy;R.Dujmovits Der gr&ouml;&szlig;te der 5 Felsblock zerst&ouml;rte unsere K&uuml;che komplett. Nur gut, dass wir unseren Koch w&auml;hrend des Besteigungsversuchs nach unten ins Gr&uuml;ne geschickt hatten. The biggest of the 5 boulders destroyed our kitchen completely. So good that we hade sent our cook down into the green during our summit attempt.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"132\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4703%C2%A9R-188x125.jpg\"><\/a> &nbsp;&nbsp; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4640%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"_K2A4640&copy;R.Dujmovits Der weisse Granit-Block rechts unten im Bild schlug nur einen Meter neben Gerlindes und Ralfs Zelt ein ehe er dann noch 5 Meter in eine Mulde neben dem Zelte rollte, wo er liegen blieb. The white granit-boulder (right side down in the picture) crashed just 1 meter next to Gerlinde's and Ralf's tent. It then roled to the right into a small depression just 5 meter right to the tent where it stopped.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"204\" height=\"132\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4640%C2%A9R-188x125.jpg\"><\/a> &nbsp;&nbsp; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4763%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"_K2A4763&copy;R.Dujmovits In der K&uuml;che ist fast nichts ganz geblieben. Only few things of the kitchen equipment remained as the were originally.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"203\" height=\"131\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4763%C2%A9R-188x125.jpg\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>After having broken into a few crevasse (due to the huge amount of snow and poor visibility, the crevasses were very difficult to see), Tommy and I reached our base camp, and we were quite surprised about what we saw: while we had been gone, five huge rocks (1.2 to 2 metres diametre each) had hit our base camp. It seemed as if they had been loosened by the strong rain from far above base camp and had literally &lsquo;skipped into our camp. Our kitchen tent was a complete write-off as the biggest rock had completely flattened the stone kitchen. It was lucky that we had asked our cook to go down to the lower altitudes while we were on the mountain. I don&rsquo;t even want to think about what would have happened, had he been there. Maxut&rsquo;s and Vassily&rsquo;s tents were also completely destroyed whereas Gerlinde and my tent remained unharmed, which was probably due to the fact that it had been pitched in a small ditch. A rock with a diametre of about 1.5m must have fallen right next to it, however, due to the ditch it must have bounced back. We were so lucky not to have been there.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4679%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"_K2A4679&copy;R.Dujmovits Der wei&szlig;e Felsblock links der Bildmitte blieb genau 3 Meter vor Tommy's Zelt liegen. The white boulder to the left of the middle of the picture just stopped three meters before reaching the tent of Tommy (to the right\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"197\" height=\"130\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4679%C2%A9R-188x125.jpg\"><\/a> &nbsp;&nbsp; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4733%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"_K2A4733&copy;R.Dujmovits Tommy inspiziert Vassili's total zerst&ouml;rtes Zelt. Tommy has a close look to Vassili's totally destroyed tent.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"202\" height=\"132\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4733%C2%A9R-188x125.jpg\"><\/a> &nbsp;&nbsp; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4643%C2%A9R.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[1770]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"_K2A4643&copy;R.Dujmovits The tent of Maxut was lifted away and was completely destroyed by a minor boulder. Das Zelt von Maxut wurde von einem weniger gro&szlig;en Felsblock mitgerissen und v&ouml;llig zerst&ouml;rt.\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"132\" data-original=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/K2A4643%C2%A9R-188x125.jpg\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>While Tommy descended to base camp to get Abdhul and the camel herders, I stayed here to keep in touch with Gerlinde, Darek, Maxut and Vassiliy. Gerlinde&rsquo;s battery power permitting, I will do my best to report about their progress on the mountain in the next few days.<br>\nLet&rsquo;s keep our fingers crossed &ndash; after weeks of very hard work they really deserve success this time!<\/p>\n<p>Best regards from our slightly damaged base camp<\/p>\n<p>P.S. Last Update, 6pm Local Time:<\/p>\n<p>Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassiliy and Darek have arrived safely at Camp III. They had been struggling in the strong winds during the ascent, however, it had died down at about 5.30pm. They are all well and they were able to dry their gear in the afternoon. The summit attempt is now more likely to be on Monday.<\/p>\n<p>&copy; TEXT<a title=\"Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.\" href=\"http:\/\/www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at\/\" target=\"_blank\">&nbsp;G.Kaltenbrunner<\/a>\/<a title=\"AMICAL alpin - Ralf Dujmovits\" href=\"http:\/\/www.amical.de\/\" target=\"_blank\">R.Dujmovits<\/a>&nbsp;; TRANSLATION: Billi Bierling<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.amical.de\/expeditionstagebuecher\/k2-2011\/neuigkeiten.html\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-437\" title=\"AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten\" src=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/themes\/enigma-wp2\/img\/loading16.gif\" alt=\"AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten\" width=\"178\" height=\"120\" data-original=\"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/amical.de-logo.jpg\"><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; Dear Friends At midday today, I was finally able to talk to Gerlinde. She said that the wind had still been very strong and that Vassiliy, Maxut, Darek and herself had just reached a point above Camp III. At about two-thirds up the very steep bit directly on the pillar after Camp III, they [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6,104,105],"tags":[279,164,57,64,107,282,106,111,108,283,44,163],"class_list":["post-458","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-athletes","category-gerlinde-kaltenbrunner","category-ralf-dujmovits","tag-athletes","tag-camp","tag-climb","tag-climbing","tag-expedition","tag-gerlinde-kaltenbrunner","tag-k2","tag-k2-expedition","tag-north-pillar","tag-ralf-dujmovits","tag-valandre","tag-weather"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/458","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=458"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/458\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":461,"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/458\/revisions\/461"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=458"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=458"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.valandre.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=458"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}