Valandre Blog

A TEAM VALANDRE on a Climb of the Grande Pic de la Meije (3983m/11.950ft)


 

July 31th and august 1th 2012 Paul Régnier, Pierre Olivier Blanc et Francois Ranise entered the foot (3092m) of the 3983m high Grande Pic de la Meije, to Climb the Allain- Leiniger route. This route is a beautiful almost 1000m rock climb on the south face of the Grand Pic de la Meije in the massif des Ecrins south of Grenoble – France. Rated TD (Tres Difficile/Very difficult), it consist of numerous pitches in 5 and one famous icy chimney in 6.

Grande Pic de la Meije (3983m/11.950ft)

The La Meije was one of the last peaks to be climbed in the French Alpes due to the technical difficulties. It’s an 8 to 10hours climb up and a 4h decent of the glacier on the north side. Paul, Pierre and Francois had a late start waiting for the sun to warm them up, and then they entered the route and climbed up with heavy back packs containing the necessary gear. Having some difficulties finding the route, they were happy to be able to make a bivy at the edge of the squared glacier at 3600m (10.800ft).


……and up the chimney we go!
 

Just before sunset, after a memorable night, Paul shoot a video at the bivi, as all happened to have spent the night in their Valandré bags. Paul in a Swing 900, PO in his old time Lafayette and Francois in a Bloody Mary. After summiting, Paul sent the video to us in Belcaire.


The famous BLING sticker!

Paul, Pierre Olivier and Francois have received a Bling sticker and our Flipper booklet containing all information’s of the 14 8000m peaks to thank them for the video.

The booklet is “super gear” to bring along. It allows you to play “the 8000m peak quiz” in the bivy or in the camp – EX: Who was the first to climb Kanchenjunga in winter, and what date? and….Who was the first wonan on Nanga….with or without ox?

Send us a Valandré video, and you will receive a BLING STICKER and the FLIPPER BOOKLET!

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The Directissime of the Concave

The Directissime of the Concave

High altitude – no ox – in alpine style, is our passion, but in alpinism you find an ocean of different passionate directions. In the south of France (Marseille region), local climbers “train” in the Calanques. And to these climbers, the Calanques natually have it’s Eiger Nordwand, or El Cap: “La directissime de la Concave”. This unique line, offers a 35m (115ft) overhang out of 90m (295ft) with a total height of 135m (443ft). This route/line was opened in 1966 by G Livanos and M Vaucher. French cotations: L1:IV; L2: A2, L3: A2; L4: A1; L5: A1/IV+. The pitons are the original from 1966….a bit rusty….but that’s how it is!

Oktober 6th 2011 French climbers Pierre-Olivier Blanc and Paul Regnier, took an early start, and climbed this mystical route, beading in the beautiful autumn sun light of the Calanques in South France. Paul Regnier shot and mixed the video.

Continue reading “The Directissime of the Concave” »

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