Back to the races
OutDoor and Outdoor Retailer is in the pipeline.
The EuropeeanOutDoor show runs from the 12 to 15 July, and Valandre will exhibit in Hall 7 booth A7-307.
From August 2th to 5, the second round is off in Salt Lake City with the Outdoor Retailer show. We will exhibit at and with Liberty Mountain at booth # 10007.
So what will be new? As usual, not a lot…….but what we have tends always to hit the center, and this time it will as well!
Billi Bierling interviews Hirotaka Takeushi (June 5th 12) in Kathmandu after his last 14 8000: Dhaulagiri.
Barbara Bierling from Garmisch, will join Valandre at our “come back show” at the European Outdoor show in Friedrichshafen Germany July 12 – 15 in Hall 7 stand 307.
Barbara, better known in the community, as Billi, has scaled 3 8000: Everest 21.05.2009, Manaslu 01.10.2010, Lhotse 24.05.2011. In 2011 Billi tested her skills again, climbing Manaslu a second time without the use of supplemental oxygen. In lower speed, Billi reached the summit, and returned safely.
Billi is a late converted into sports. Born in Garmisch, Billi has a natural attachment to Alpinism and Mountaineering, and starts her day with a 45min spin around the block, cold shower and a Yogurt without sugar. What more do you need in life?
Billi….On Lhotse…26.05.11..”in extase”
Billi is today totally dedicated to Himalayan climbing, besides being active on the peaks. Thanks to her formation as Journalist in England, Billi is an active writer. As an English speaking journalist, Billi has assisted MISS Elizabeth Hawley in Kathmandu for more than 7 years and interviewed the returning expedition, keeping the records up to date.
Billi on Manaslu 01.10.2010….using supplemental “Margaritas”.
Assistant to the AKASHA CHRONICLE of MISS Elizabeth Hawley, Billi holds an extremely interesting conversation, and it is always a pleasure, to have her around. Being a friend of Valandre, Billi accepted to join us at the Friedrichshafen show in Hall 7 booth 307.
So, swing by if you have a second.
L'enfer Blanc | Iadul Alb | A Feher Pokol
Field testing the Immelman
The winter 2012 saw here in Europe, polar cold decent from Siberia covering the western European continent completely. Heavy snow blocked road transportations all over Europe, and temperatures hit serious negative values.
In the north east of Romania, there is a gorge called Bicaz and in this gorge, there is a face called “Hells neck”. In the days of February 15 to 22, Emil Camerzan and Leslie Fucsko, opened a new route named “ZEITGEIST” – A German word for “TIMESPIRIT”. Briefly it’s 420m of overhanging limestone, with 11 pitches of artificial climbing and 2 pitches of A4, some free climbing and two pitches of alpine mix at the end of the route.
The perfect conditions to test the articulated Immelman concept down jacket, as it is designed to perform in these, technical climbing conditions. And the holy ghost, sprayed freezing conditions of daytime -10°/15°C (15°/5°F) and night time -20°/26°C (-5°/15°F), on these 420m (1377 ft) overhanging limestone, allowing a serious field test.
Leslie and Emil exited the 420m (1377 ft) overhanging route after 7 days. And as they did not report having a cold at the exit, we presume that the Immelman did well in the daytime once needed, and that the Lafayette and Mirage, allowed them to rest well at night.
Hats off to Emil and Leslie, for this remarkable artificial winter climb.
Continue reading “L’enfer Blanc | Iadul Alb | A Feher Pokol” »
K2 is, as we all know, a mountain that has haunted climbers since the first expedition attempts. “The savage mountain”, has always resisted as if no man was allowed to enter it’s domain. Human tragedy is deeply rooted in it’s image, forcing climbers to take every little event into serious consideration: You just do not fool around with the BIG SCARY BROWNIE.
In the April issue of NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 2012, a brilliant article describes the International Amical Alpin climb of this big pile of rock and ice. Rightly they based the assent from the North side (North pillar), properly offering more stable conditions.
Naturally one could look at this climb, as the last in the line of Gerlindes 14 non ox climbs. It is, but it’s also a bit more: This climb represent a human manifestation of outmost will, determination, faith and profound trust. Confronted by this, K2 opened up the closed door and offered 15min to Gerlinde alone on top. No wind, Sun down light from a clear blue sky and surrounded below by all the 8000 she had formerly climbed in the area. An alpine blessing on her final 8000.
READ THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC K2 ARTICLE HERE
Once again K2 has spoken……but this time using a sweet language.
Mr Ralf Dujmovits & Mrs Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner | ISPO WINTER 2012
Old friendships are important, so I had the pleasure to meet with Ralf Dujmovits who introduced me to his new wife Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner at the 2012 winter ISPO show in Munich. Ralf reached his last 8000m peak (Lhotse) in 2009 and became the first German on the 14 8000 and number 16 in the line:
1989 — Nuptse NW ridge
1996 — Nuptse Northpillar
1990 — Dhaulagiri
1992 — Mt Everest (supplemental oxygen)
1993 — Baruntse
1994 — K2
1995 — Cho Oyu
1998 — Cho Oyu
1996 — Shisha Pangma
1997 — Shisha Pangma
1999 — Broad Peak
2000 — Gasherbrum II
2001 — Nanga Parbat
2009 — Lhotse
Ralf is a strong and dedicated DAV Guide, and his record contains numerous successful expeditions, guiding clients to a 8000m summit. A true pillar in German High Altitude climbing, and a great man.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is a Austrian climber, out of the “old school”, extremely attached and sensitive to the notion of “The mountain”. August 2011 Gerlinde and Ralf engaged a climb of the Japanese route of the North Pillar of K2. Here Gerlinde summited her final 8000m peak and became the first woman to complete the 8000m without supplemental oxygen:
1998 — Cho Oyu,
2001 — Makalu,
2002 — Manaslu,
2003 — Nanga Parbat,
2004 — Annapurna I,
2004 — Gasherbrum I,
2005 — Shisha Pangma,
2005 — Gasherbrum II,
2006 — Kangchenjunga,
2007 — Broad Peak,
2008 — Dhaulagiri,
2009 — Lhotse,
2010 — Mount Everest,
2011 — K2.
A full report of the K2 climb 2011, will be published in a 32 page report in NATIONAL GEOGRAFIC, translated and published worldwide, and due to appear in April 2012.