Valandre Blog

Mount Kailash

Mount Kailash is a 6,638 m (21,778 ft) peak situated in today’s Tibet. It raises up into the sky, in the center area of the source of Asia’s  3 major rivers: Indus river, Brahmanputra river and the Ganges river.
“All mountains are sacred”… quote Mrs Oh Eun Sun, disputed first woman on the 14 8000, the Kailash is by far the most sacred mountain in Asia, to Hindus it’s considered to be the eternal home to the Lord Shiva, and Tantric Buddhist believe that Mount Kailash is the home to the Buddah Demchok.

Mount Kailash From The Nepali Side

Every year, thousands make a pilgrimage to Kailash, following a tradition going back thousands of years. Pilgrims of several religions believe that circumambulating Mount Kailash on foot is a holy ritual that will bring good fortune. The peregrination is made in a clockwise direction by Hindus and Buddhists. Followers of the Jain and Bönpo religions circumambulate the mountain in a counterclockwise direction. The path around Mount Kailash is 52 km (32 mi) long.

The Norh Face of Mt.Kailash 6714 m (Center)

Climbing the Kailash is not advisable, and it has never been done, as it’s told that it will put a curse upon the climbers, who will start to grow old very fast. Prospected in 1926 by Hugh Ruttledge and later by Herbert Tichy  who was in the area in 1936, attempting to climb Gurla Mandhata. When he asked one of the Garpons of Ngari whether Kailash was climbable, the Garpon replied, “Only a man entirely free of sin could climb Kailas. And he wouldn’t have to actually scale the sheer walls of ice to do it – he’d just turn himself into a bird and fly to the summit.”

Mount Kailash

 Reinhold Messner was given the opportunity by the Chinese government to climb the mountain in the 1980s but he declined. In 2001 the Chinese gave permission for a Spanish team led by Jesus Martinez Novas to climb the peak, but in the face of international disapproval the Chinese decided to ban all attempts to climb the mountain. Messner, referring to the Spanish plans, said, “If we conquer this mountain, then we conquer something in people’s souls … I would suggest they go and climb something a little harder. Kailas is not so high and not so hard

You are right Reinhold….better stay away from this one!
You are right Reinhold….better stay away from this one!

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Friedrichshafen OutDoor Show 2012

Friedrichshafen Outdoor Show 2012

Back to the races

OutDoor and Outdoor Retailer is in the pipeline.

The EuropeeanOutDoor show runs from the 12 to 15 July, and Valandre will exhibit in Hall 7 booth A7-307.

From August 2th to 5, the second round is off in Salt Lake City with the Outdoor Retailer show. We will exhibit at and with Liberty Mountain at booth # 10007.

So what will be new? As usual, not a lot…….but what we have tends always to hit the center, and this time it will as well!

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Billi Bierling at the Friedrichshafen Outdoor show

Billi Bierling interviews Hirotaka Takeushi (June 5th 12) in Kathmandu after his last 14 8000: Dhaulagiri.

Billi Bierling interviews Hirotaka Takeushi (June 5th 12) in Kathmandu after his last 14 8000: Dhaulagiri.

Barbara Bierling from Garmisch, will join Valandre at our “come back show” at the European Outdoor show in Friedrichshafen Germany July 12 – 15 in Hall 7 stand 307.

Barbara, better known in the community, as Billi, has scaled 3 8000: Everest 21.05.2009, Manaslu 01.10.2010, Lhotse 24.05.2011. In 2011 Billi tested her skills again, climbing Manaslu a second time without the use of supplemental oxygen. In lower speed, Billi reached the summit, and returned safely.

Billi is a late converted into sports. Born in Garmisch, Billi has a natural attachment to Alpinism and Mountaineering, and starts her day with a 45min spin around the block, cold shower and a Yogurt without sugar. What more do you need in life?

Billi....On Lhotse...26.05.11.."in extase"

Billi….On Lhotse…26.05.11..”in extase”

Billi is today totally dedicated to Himalayan climbing, besides being active on the peaks. Thanks to her formation as Journalist in England, Billi is an active writer. As an English speaking journalist, Billi has assisted MISS Elizabeth Hawley in Kathmandu for more than 7 years and interviewed the returning expedition, keeping the records up to date.

Billi on Manaslu 01.10.2010....using supplemental Margaritas

Billi on Manaslu 01.10.2010….using supplemental “Margaritas”.

Assistant to the AKASHA CHRONICLE of MISS Elizabeth Hawley, Billi holds an extremely interesting conversation, and it is always a pleasure, to have her around. Being a friend of Valandre, Billi accepted to join us at the Friedrichshafen show in Hall 7 booth 307.

So, swing by if you have a second.

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L’enfer Blanc | Iadul Alb | A Feher Pokol

L'enfer Blanc | Iadul Alb | A Feher Pokol

L'enfer Blanc | Iadul Alb | A Feher Pokol

Field testing the Immelman

The winter 2012 saw here in Europe, polar cold decent from Siberia covering the western European continent completely. Heavy snow blocked road transportations all over Europe, and temperatures hit serious negative values.

In the north east of Romania, there is a gorge called Bicaz and in this gorge, there is a face called “Hells neck”. In the days of February 15 to 22, Emil Camerzan and Leslie Fucsko, opened a new route named “ZEITGEIST” – A German word for “TIMESPIRIT”. Briefly it’s 420m of overhanging limestone, with 11 pitches of artificial climbing and 2 pitches of A4, some free climbing and two pitches of alpine mix at the end of the route.

The perfect conditions to test the articulated Immelman concept down jacket, as it is designed to perform in these, technical climbing conditions. And the holy ghost, sprayed freezing conditions of daytime -10°/15°C (15°/5°F) and night time -20°/26°C (-5°/15°F), on these 420m (1377 ft) overhanging limestone, allowing a serious field test.

Leslie and Emil exited the 420m (1377 ft) overhanging route after 7 days. And as they did not report having a cold at the exit, we presume that the Immelman did well in the daytime once needed, and that the Lafayette and Mirage, allowed them to rest well at night.

Hats off to Emil and Leslie, for this remarkable artificial winter climb.

Continue reading “L’enfer Blanc | Iadul Alb | A Feher Pokol” »

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The day that K2 surrendered to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

The day that K2 surrendered to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

K2 is, as we all know, a mountain that has haunted climbers since the first expedition attempts. “The savage mountain”, has always resisted as if no man was allowed to enter it’s domain. Human tragedy is deeply rooted in it’s image, forcing climbers to take every little event into serious consideration: You just do not fool around with the BIG SCARY BROWNIE.

In the April issue of NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 2012, a brilliant article describes the International Amical Alpin climb of this big pile of rock and ice. Rightly they based the assent from the North side (North pillar), properly offering more stable conditions.

Naturally one could look at this climb, as the last in the line of Gerlindes 14 non ox climbs. It is, but it’s also a bit more: This climb represent a human manifestation of outmost will, determination, faith and profound trust. Confronted by this, K2 opened up the closed door and offered 15min to Gerlinde alone on top. No wind, Sun down light from a clear blue sky and surrounded below by all the 8000 she had formerly climbed in the area. An alpine blessing on her final 8000.

READ THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC K2 ARTICLE HERE

Once again K2 has spoken……but this time using a sweet language.

 

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