Valandre Blog

17 August 2011 – International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Brief Update 17 August 2011 :

Gerlinde, Ralf and the rest of the team are staying at Camp I (5,300m) for another night. Due to yesterday’s heavy snowfall and the potential avalanche danger that comes with it, the team decided to wait before ascending to Camp II (6,600m).

Today, a good amount of the fresh snow has already come down and the team is pretty confident that they will be able to climb to Camp II tomorrow. The weather forecast has not changed and still predicts dry and stable weather for the end of the week.

The itinerary for the summit attempt allows for an extra day on the mountain, which means that Sunday will remain their summit day. We will find out whether this plan will change or not in the next few days.

Warm Regards

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team

© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits; TRANSLATION: Elke Luginsland

AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten

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16 August 2011 – International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Brief Update 16 August 2011 :

After a short break at the Chinese Base Camp, Gerlinde, Ralf and the rest of the team left for their summit bid this morning. At present they are aiming to go for the top on Sunday, 21st August.We wish them all the best and are keeping our fingers crossed.

Mountain-technology permitting, we will do our utmost to keep you updated in the coming days.

Warm regards

Gerlinde’s and Ralf’s home team

© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits; TRANSLATION: Elke Luginsland

AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten

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6th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2


the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

6th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Dear Friends,

raining at the moment, as we write these lines, wet snow on our tent in the advanced base camp.
Tuesday night we are after eight very busy, very impressive days on the mountain come back here.

After looking at the end of July in the Chinese base camp had recovered well, we started on 2 August at Camp I on. A long, split at the end very rich ascent, where we asked ourselves how often we are likely to rise even through the rough glacier up. Good thing we had with the break-even waited a day. That day went by from the intense sunlight countless avalanches and the snow could sit well.

Continue reading “6th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2” »

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8th August 2011 – International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Brief Update 8th August 2011 :

After an exhausting ascent and a lot of fixing work, the K2 team spent two nights at around 8,000m, which was necessary due to the constant snowfall (about 30cm). They are currently trying to get back to Camp III and then to base camp, where they are planning to rest for a few days. We are expecting the next detailed newsletter by midweek.

Warm Regards

Gerlinde Ralf and the whole team

© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits; TRANSLATION: Elke Luginsland

Darek Zaluski in CII on the North Pillar of K2, testing the GOLD awarded Immelman jacket.

Camp II – Darek Zaluski (Poland)

Darek Zaluski in CII on the North Pillar of K2

Testing the GOLD awarded Immelman jacket.

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Help Jeff Lowe

US Icone climber Jeff Lowe came to the OR Show, crippled in his wheelchair, but spirits as high as his reputation. Jeff presented the remaining’s of his backpack, left behind after his remarkable solo on the North Face of Eiger in the winter 1991. Jeff opened a new route over the course of 9 days: a direct shoot up the middle of the north face called “Metanoia”.

US Icone climber Jeff Lowe came to the OR Show

US Icone climber Jeff Lowe came to the OR Show

Lowe’s 20-year-old pack and gear on display at OR

At the exit of the route, Jeff had to be heliported from the summit, and hence left his back pack below at his last biwi. On march 25 this year, Josh Wharton spend over two hour’s digging Jeff’s backpack out of the snow.  The contains of the backpack was on display at this years OR summer show at the Liberty Mountain booth: 10009.

Climbing is a community, so we inform that Jeff wants to produce a film, and there can be no doubt that this movie will be interesting for all of us, who are addicted to mountaineering. However, Jeff needs funding, so we invite everybody to check out their new website, that has been ON for two days now: www.JeffLoweMovie.com.

 

Jeff Lowe’s Pack Retrieved from Eiger North Face from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

 

Jeff Lowe opens his backpack 20 years later from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

 

Ogden Climbing Parks Customer Receipt/Purchase Confirmation

So we passed the hat around and collected $102.25. Some gave $20 some 5, everybody gave what they could. You too can pass the hat around: In your climbing club, in your store, in your company…….

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