Bivouc - Japanese Couloir
23 August, 2011 – Start towards the Summit
After Gerlinde, Vassiliy, Maxut and Darek had spent an icy and bittercold night at 8,300m, they were getting ready for a 1am start in their cramped bivouac. Shortly after their departure at about 1.30am, they started having problems with their hands due to the intense cold. Even though the gradient above the bivouac is ‘only’ 45° – the climbers still have to stand on their forefeet most of the time. This reduces the blood circulation and with temperatures of -25°C leads to very cold feed.
Continue reading “23 August 2011 – Start towards the Summit – International K2 Expedition” »
Ascent CIV – Japanese Couloir
Latest news from K2-North-Pillar-Expedition
Yesterday evening, our four friends took the difficult decision to use today as a rest and fixing day. They spent a very cold night at 8000 m and this morning at 6:30 a.m. they started to fix some rope along the traverse into the Japanese Couloirs and further up this couloirs.
Continue reading “22 August 2011 – Latest news from K2 North Pillar Expedition” »
Brief Update 21 August 2011 [Camp IV]:
Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassiliy and Darek reached Camp IV (about 8,000m) at 4.30pm this afternoon. The weather was perfect the whole day, however, they had to break trail in deep snow. Their equipment is dry and the weather forecast is looking good for tomorrow. They are all in good spirits and are feeling pretty confident about their summit attempt.
Please, continue to keep your fingers crossed!
Brief Update 7:30 pm ( Local Time)
The team has decided not to go for the summit tomorrow but to fix the traverse from the camp to the Japanese couloirs. They also want to check out the snow conditions in the couloirs due to expected snowdrifts.
They are planning on having a “rest day” tomorrow and try for the summit on Tuesday. The weather forecast remains good, also for Tuesday.
Warm Regards
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team
© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits
Tommy has a close look to Vassily's totally destroyed tent.
Dear Friends
At midday today, I was finally able to talk to Gerlinde. She said that the wind had still been very strong and that Vassiliy, Maxut, Darek and herself had just reached a point above Camp III. At about two-thirds up the very steep bit directly on the pillar after Camp III, they had been wading through huge amounts of fresh snow and snowdrifts. They all sounded well, however, they were quite exhausted due to the strong winds.
Continue reading “7th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2” »
Brief Update, 19 August 2011 – Camp II (6,600 m):
After the four climbers had spent a very exhausting night in a small bivouac tent on the rocky shoulder between Camp I and Camp II, Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassily and Darek reached Camp II at 3.30pm Chinese time.
The conditions were extremely difficult and they had to wade through hip-deep snow in some parts. Snow conditions and trail breaking permitting, they will be climbing to Camp III (ca. 7,250 m) tomorrow.
Tommy Heinrich and Ralf Dujmovits have arrived at base camp safe and sound.
Warm Regards
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team
© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits ; TRANSLATION: Billi Bierling
