Valandre Blog

The day that K2 surrendered to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

The day that K2 surrendered to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

K2 is, as we all know, a mountain that has haunted climbers since the first expedition attempts. “The savage mountain”, has always resisted as if no man was allowed to enter it’s domain. Human tragedy is deeply rooted in it’s image, forcing climbers to take every little event into serious consideration: You just do not fool around with the BIG SCARY BROWNIE.

In the April issue of NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 2012, a brilliant article describes the International Amical Alpin climb of this big pile of rock and ice. Rightly they based the assent from the North side (North pillar), properly offering more stable conditions.

Naturally one could look at this climb, as the last in the line of Gerlindes 14 non ox climbs. It is, but it’s also a bit more: This climb represent a human manifestation of outmost will, determination, faith and profound trust. Confronted by this, K2 opened up the closed door and offered 15min to Gerlinde alone on top. No wind, Sun down light from a clear blue sky and surrounded below by all the 8000 she had formerly climbed in the area. An alpine blessing on her final 8000.

READ THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC K2 ARTICLE HERE

Once again K2 has spoken……but this time using a sweet language.

 

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The Directissime of the Concave

The Directissime of the Concave

High altitude – no ox – in alpine style, is our passion, but in alpinism you find an ocean of different passionate directions. In the south of France (Marseille region), local climbers “train” in the Calanques. And to these climbers, the Calanques natually have it’s Eiger Nordwand, or El Cap: “La directissime de la Concave”. This unique line, offers a 35m (115ft) overhang out of 90m (295ft) with a total height of 135m (443ft). This route/line was opened in 1966 by G Livanos and M Vaucher. French cotations: L1:IV; L2: A2, L3: A2; L4: A1; L5: A1/IV+. The pitons are the original from 1966….a bit rusty….but that’s how it is!

Oktober 6th 2011 French climbers Pierre-Olivier Blanc and Paul Regnier, took an early start, and climbed this mystical route, beading in the beautiful autumn sun light of the Calanques in South France. Paul Regnier shot and mixed the video.

Continue reading “The Directissime of the Concave” »

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26 August 2011 – Summit Photos – International K2 Expedition

Photograph © Maxut Zhumayev/National Geographic - Austrian alpinist Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner cheers on reaching the summit of K2, the world's second-highest mountain. By reaching the top, she became the first woman in the world to summit all 14 of Earth's highest peaks without using supplementary oxygen.

Photograph © Maxut Zhumayev/National Geographic – Austrian alpinist Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner cheers on reaching the summit of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain. By reaching the top, she became the first woman in the world to summit all 14 of Earth’s highest peaks without using supplementary oxygen.

26 August 2011 -Summit Photos

Gerlinde and Ralf, Maxut, Vassiliy, Darek and Tommy had a very long day yesterday as they went all the way down to Chinese Base Camp, where they arrived late and exhausted.

But before they switched off the base camp lights, they were able to send as the summit photos we have so eagerly been waiting for!

Warm regards and have a great weekend!

 

     

 

The home team of Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits
© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits ; TRANSLATION: Billi Bierling

AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten

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25 August 2011 – Local time in the morning – International K2 Expedition

A big hello at deposit camp

We are very relieved to report that Tommy and Ralf were able to meet Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassiliy und Darek at the deposit camp, which is at the end of the heavily crevassed glacier.
They are on their way down to the base camp and after a short rest will continue to the Chinese base camp.
The camels are already waiting there and the team will start their way back into civilisation tomorrow.

We are sending our heartfelt congratulations to the whole team, especially gerlinde for their amazing success.

Warm Regards

Gerlinde’s and Ralf’s Home Team
© TEXT G.Kaltenbrunner/R.Dujmovits ; TRANSLATION: Billi Bierling

AMICAL alpin - Neuigkeiten

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24 August 2011 – Team still descending – International K2 Expedition

Gerlinde short bevor reaching Camp III - International K2 Expedition

Gerlinde short bevor reaching Camp III - International K2 Expedition

Update 10AM Local Time

At midnight last night, Gerlinde, and a little later also Darek, reached Camp IV at 8,000m. Vassily and Maxut stayed the night at their bivouac at 8,300m, from where they left at 7am. They have now almost reached Camp IV.

Today, they are planning to descend to Camp I at 5,300m, where they will spend one last night at the foot of the North Pillar before they will go down to our deposit camp tomorrow. I am planning to go up and meet them there.

Continue reading “24 August 2011 – Team still descending – International K2 Expedition” »

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