Valandre Blog

Man walks up Mount Kilimanjaro on his hands

[jwplayer XYzPuobs-S5EMYFqt]Hats off……..everybody clap your hands!

Mountaineering is a personal engagement between the climber and his mountain. Climbing up the Tanzanian volcano Mount Kilimanjaro, is not a big deal in the scale of climbing an 8000m peak. Just 5.895m……yes just a “small little 5.895m”!
Spencer West (USA) confronted his mountain and summited it, in what simply deserves its place in the history of mountaineering: With no legs, Spencer wheel chaired some of the way and climbed where the wheel chair could not go……on his hands. It takes determination and courage and a profound love for life to for fill such an achievement.
A BIG BIG Bravo Spencer……Hats off!
link: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-18508243

Billi Bierling at the Friedrichshafen Outdoor show

Billi Bierling interviews Hirotaka Takeushi (June 5th 12) in Kathmandu after his last 14 8000: Dhaulagiri.

Billi Bierling interviews Hirotaka Takeushi (June 5th 12) in Kathmandu after his last 14 8000: Dhaulagiri.

Barbara Bierling from Garmisch, will join Valandre at our “come back show” at the European Outdoor show in Friedrichshafen Germany July 12 – 15 in Hall 7 stand 307.

Barbara, better known in the community, as Billi, has scaled 3 8000: Everest 21.05.2009, Manaslu 01.10.2010, Lhotse 24.05.2011. In 2011 Billi tested her skills again, climbing Manaslu a second time without the use of supplemental oxygen. In lower speed, Billi reached the summit, and returned safely.

Billi is a late converted into sports. Born in Garmisch, Billi has a natural attachment to Alpinism and Mountaineering, and starts her day with a 45min spin around the block, cold shower and a Yogurt without sugar. What more do you need in life?

Billi....On Lhotse...26.05.11.."in extase"

Billi….On Lhotse…26.05.11..”in extase”

Billi is today totally dedicated to Himalayan climbing, besides being active on the peaks. Thanks to her formation as Journalist in England, Billi is an active writer. As an English speaking journalist, Billi has assisted MISS Elizabeth Hawley in Kathmandu for more than 7 years and interviewed the returning expedition, keeping the records up to date.

Billi on Manaslu 01.10.2010....using supplemental Margaritas

Billi on Manaslu 01.10.2010….using supplemental “Margaritas”.

Assistant to the AKASHA CHRONICLE of MISS Elizabeth Hawley, Billi holds an extremely interesting conversation, and it is always a pleasure, to have her around. Being a friend of Valandre, Billi accepted to join us at the Friedrichshafen show in Hall 7 booth 307.

So, swing by if you have a second.

Hirotaka Takeushi becomes the first Japanese on the 14 8000

Hirotaka Takeushi first Japanese on the 14 8000Hirotaka Takeushi first Japanese on the 14 8000

Saturday 26th at 05:30pm (17:30) Hirotaka Takeushi (竹内洋岳) summited his final 14 8000 Dhaulagiri (8167m/26.795ft). Kenro Nakajima (Climber and cameraman) was due to take part in the summit push, but apparently he turned around between CII (6600m) and CIII at 7400m.

Hirotaka collected all the necessary gear, and carried on alone. An interesting fact, as Hirotaka is nick named “Solitary man” in Japan.

We are now waiting for his summit images, and eventually summit videos. According to information’s, Hiro should air in the “NEWS ZERO” on NTV today at 22:54h (Japan time)

A BIG congratulations to MISTER Hirotaka Takeushi for his final 14 8000, and the fact that the question who would become the first Japanese to complete this task, has now found the final answer.

Listen to Hirotaka Takeushi on radio from Dhaulagiri BC:




Blog:竹内洋岳 – Hirotaka Takeuchi

 

Summit push…

Hirotaka takeuchi and Kenro Nakasima

Hirotaka Takeushi is now pushing for the Dhaulagiri summit. Accompanied by Kenro Nakasima, who is both climbing partner as well as cameraman, Kenro will hopefully send us the expected photos and evt video, once Hiro sets foot on his last 8000m peak.
According to Takeushi, the summit window is open May 26th.

We at Valandre wish both of you, good luck!

Go now Hiro

Blog: Hirotaka Takeushi

Mixed feelings from Everest BC

Generally this year was bad on the south side of Everest. Abnormally high temperatures in badging sunlight, radiated the Khumbu icefall and the Lhotse wall, increasing the risk of avalanches. The icefall, was and is unstable and with a very high risk as it was moving from day to day.

 Khumbu Icefall......this years tricky part on Everest
Khumbu Icefall……this years tricky part on Everest

Russel Brice (Himalayanexperience.com) decided to “pull the plug” and dismantled his BC, which once again triggered off a new controversy in the community. Russ has already tasted the sweet taste of “fatal controversy”, when David Sharp died on the Tibet side of Everest May 27th 2006. Read more about the reasons to pull the plug.

Russel is an experienced old timer now, and his judgment stands clear. If there are a major collaps in the Kumbu icefall, not only can this have fatal consequences in the BC, but it can also block the “bottled climbers”, descending from a summit attempt.

As of yesterday May 21, 3 climbers were reported dead on Everest, and two other were reported missing (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-18142900). But the season is not over yet!

 Chilian climbers heading for the South Col May 17th.
Chilian climbers heading for the South Col May 17th.

Ralf Dujmovits did try his “topless” Everest attempt. Climbing without oxygen, solo from CIII, and carrying all his personal gear up to the South Col just the way it should be done. Suisse speed climber Uli  Steck, was in Ralf’s tracks and arrived later at the South Col. Together they would go for the summit next day (May 18th).

 A "Burned out" Ralf at the South Col of Everest
A “Burned out” Ralf at the South Col of Everest

During the night, Ralf realized that he had burned out, and with his experience of 27 8000, he knew his new heading: Down. It’s obvious that Ralf had not completely recovered from the sickness of sinusitis during the climb…..so a burn out at the South Col is not surprising. Uli Steck however, summited topless the 18th.

During the decent, Ralf crossed the organized expeditions heading for the summit. “Climbers” bottled up in CII, heading to become the first boy on the block, to climb Everest.

 Climbing Everest? No comments.
Climbing Everest? No comments.

Summit window is reported open from the 24 to 27 May. And the Khumbu Icefall is roasting in the sun…

 The size of a summit is not bigger than a postal stamp.
Pay $75.000 and get your place in the line!

Good luck!

http://www.ralf-dujmovits.de