The winter 2012 saw here in Europe, polar cold decent from Siberia covering the western European continent completely. Heavy snow blocked road transportations all over Europe, and temperatures hit serious negative values.
In the north east of Romania, there is a gorge called Bicaz and in this gorge, there is a face called “Hells neck”. In the days of February 15 to 22, Emil Camerzan and Leslie Fucsko, opened a new route named “ZEITGEIST” – A German word for “TIMESPIRIT”. Briefly it’s 420m of overhanging limestone, with 11 pitches of artificial climbing and 2 pitches of A4, some free climbing and two pitches of alpine mix at the end of the route.
The perfect conditions to test the articulated Immelman concept down jacket, as it is designed to perform in these, technical climbing conditions. And the holy ghost, sprayed freezing conditions of daytime -10°/15°C (15°/5°F) and night time -20°/26°C (-5°/15°F), on these 420m (1377 ft) overhanging limestone, allowing a serious field test.
Leslie and Emil exited the 420m (1377 ft) overhanging route after 7 days. And as they did not report having a cold at the exit, we presume that the Immelman did well in the daytime once needed, and that the Lafayette and Mirage, allowed them to rest well at night.
Hats off to Emil and Leslie, for this remarkable artificial winter climb.
Nolan Fritts from Slingfile in Berkeley CA started to talk high altitude expedition at our booth at Liberty Mountain. So we opened the chat, and explained Valandre’s concept of “Gear” designed for “High altitude non ox speed climbing”. Trying several bags one by one, I cooked up Nolan for the BIG test: The combination of our high altitude Combi suit + the La Fayette. Thanks Nolan…..we had fun…..and shared the passion
blog : http://www.myspace.com/frittsdude
Well, here’s a review telling you how I took my size long Valandre Shocking Blue, a 3lb bag EN comfort rated at 16F, to a verified -15F, and slept as soundly as I ever have. At first, you’ll pass it off as experimenter bias, telling yourself that anyone who even considers—let alone owns—an $800 sleeping bag is going to think highly of it to begin with. You’ll say my thermometer had to be off. You’ll tell yourself that, with the clothing I wore, and the fact that I slept on two pads, on snow, inside a double wall tent, you could have done the same in your Antelope or Snowbunting. I mean, they have around the same 30 ounces of high-quality down, right? Right? Well, I’m not so sure you could.
Valandre. The only gear to have when the Sherpa is you
며칠 전에 프랑스 브랜드 발란드레(Valandre)의 다운 침낭(sleeping bags) 중 라파옡(La Fayette) 모델을 받았습니다. 최대한 저렴하게 사기 위해서 미국에 있는 분에게 부탁하여 미국 주소로 물건을 보냈고, 이번에 국내에 들어오면서 저에게 전달해 주었습니다. 인터넷으로 알게 된 분인데 대단히 감사할 따름입니다!!! Continue reading “라파옛 | 발란드레 (Valandre)| 침낭” »