The red dots show our route and what we are up to 7 July cameBild 21 von 21
2nd Newsletter of the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits
On Friday afternoon, 08th July, After four exciting, beautiful but also exhausting days, we returned to our advanced base camp (ABC) at the lower part of the K2 north pillar on Friday afternoon (8th July). We are now planning to rest at this camp, which is also called ‘Italy Base Camp’ (4,650m), for a few days and are hoping to get a break in this extremely changeable weather here. Since we arrived at the Chinese Base Camp (3,900m), a lot has happened.
Continue reading “2nd Report – Int. K2 expedition to the North Pillar of K2 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner & Ralf Dujmovits” »
Only 14 peaks in the world raise up over 8000m into what today is known as “the dead zone”. All are situated in the Himalaya range spread over countries like: Nepal, India, Pakistan and Tibet.
The first expedition to set foot on a 8000m peak was achieved by a French expedition in June 3th 1950, when the guide Louis Lachenal from Annecy together with Maurice Herzog from Lyon, set foot on the summit of Annapurna. As a first time ever achievement, Lachenal and Herzog climbed the dangerous peak of 8091m without the use of supplemental oxygen. A big French success, as just the logistic problems transporting the gear and equipment from France to Nepal in 1950, was a major and expensive obstacle, to what you can add climbing up into unknown conditions. Maurice Herzog was the first to reach the summit, followed closely by Louis Lachenal, though reaching the summit, and especially without the use of supplemental oxygen, they were forced to pay the price: Herzog’s decision to opt for lighter boots, and the loss of his gloves near the summit allowed frostbite to set in quickly, resulting in extensive amputations on both hands and both feet.
What makes the French expedition to Annapurna special is not only the fact that it was the first 8000+ meter peak climbed, it was also the first that was scouted and climbed entirely in one climbing season, a feat not easily repeated, especially in the golden era of mountaineering.
Since Annapurna in 1950, Climbers have learned from the experiences made, and what was in the beginning heavy National expeditions, are now light international “low budget” expeditions. At the end of 2011, only 24 people have climbed all 14 8000, and the latest to join “the club” is Japanese climber Hirotaka Takeushi, who summited his last 8000m peak: Dhaulagiri May 26th at 05:30PM local time.
Alpinism is often infused with the fundamental question of puritanism. In this spirit, climbs being made without the use of supplemental oxygen, nor porters and hence in alpine style, are regarded as the ultimate human engagement confronted with a 8000. And in this game, there are only a small club left of 13 climbers in the world, having completed this achievement.
Continue reading “The 14 peaks over 8000 meters” »
North Ridge - The north side of K2
K2 the second-highest mountain
To the mountaineer, K2 can be regarded as the ‘mountain of mountains’. Its allure arises from the combination of its isolation, extremes of weather, great altitude and technical climbing demands; K2 is a very serious and compelling objective. Our challenging route takes us onto the well documented Abruzzi Spur. This is one of six fine ridges that form a classical summit pyramid of rock and ice.
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Elisabeth Revol Blog : http://himalaya-light.over-blog.com/
Je ne vous fais pas souvent partager mes sorties de ski de rando…, pourtant les ambiances y sont quelques fois « mythiques ». Je vous laisse découvrir un des joyaux du Dévoluy…
Continue reading “Elisabeth Revol | voie du chourum olympique” »
Elisabeth Revol | Dry touffing, dry motting… & dry tooling.
Après avoir délaissé mon clavier pendant plus de 2 mois… j’arrive enfin à lâcher mes piolets pour vous donner quelques news… l’acide lactique et la lactate étant trop présent dans mes avant bras pour taper sur les touches !!!
La saison de glace a été (j’utilise le passé, car le réchauffement de ces derniers jours est en train de de démolir nombres de joyaux….) tout simplement magnifique. Tout étant formé, les t° largement négative (voir un peu trop même…), et la neige bien présente (là aussi voir un peu trop…).
Continue reading “Elisabeth Revol | Dry touffing, dry motting… & dry tooling.” »