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5th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

5th Newsletter  International K2 North Pillar Expedition

5th Newsletter – International K2 North Pillar Expedition

When we were still on the mountain about a week ago, Charly had told us that we would have to deal with pretty bad weather for the coming days. With this in mind, we decided get some rest and breath some ‘thicker’ air at our Chinese Base Camp, which the locals call “Sughet Jungal”, at 3,850m. “Sughet Jungal” means virgin forest or jungle with bushes and that is exactly how we remembered it from our first few days of the expedition.

We had left our personal tents as well as the mess and kitchen tents pitched in the middle of these beautiful meadows, bushes and small creeks as we had expected to come back to recharge our batteries down there. After having spent more than four weeks at the rocky and barren Italy Base Camp at the edge of the K2 glacier, it was great to get down.

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4th Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

4th Newsletter Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition

4th Newsletter Int. K2 North Pillar Expedition

We spent another five days and four nights at high camps on the mountain. Last night we came back to our advanced base camp, tired but also very content. We left from our advanced base camp on 19th July after a forecast of at least six days of good weather.

Bad weather brought continuous snowfall and heavy fog from our deposit camp onwards, which left us doubting our plans on arrival at Camp I. The climb across the glacier — with lots of crevasses and several falls (no injuries) — didn’t make it any easier for us. Over night the sky cleared and so we started on 20th July at 5:30 am.

 

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3rd Report – the International K2 Expedition to the North Pillar of K2

Already one week has gone by since our last newsletter and there have been days of great teamwork and a lot of progress on the mountain.

After 3 days of rest and bad weather, we went back up to Camp I on 12 July. At our deposit camp, we packed our backpacks again with some fixing gear, like clamps, ice screws, snow flukes and fixing ropes. We were going to fix one of the steeper parts of the north pillar route. Already at Camp I we were knee-deep in snow, but due to the intensity of the sun during the day, the snow had settled  somewhat. As soon as we had freed our tents from the snow, we had a fortifying meal of garlic fried potatoes that our cook Abdul had prepared for us. We discussed the tactics for the following day, which, however, would not go according to plan.

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Shocking Blue Down Sleeping Bag by Valandré

Valandre Shocking Blue - Down sleeping bagReview Shocking Blue Down Sleeping Bag

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Reviewed by pillowthread :

Well, here’s a review telling you how I took my size long Valandre Shocking Blue, a 3lb bag EN comfort rated at 16F, to a verified -15F, and slept as soundly as I ever have. At first, you’ll pass it off as experimenter bias, telling yourself that anyone who even considers—let alone owns—an $800 sleeping bag is going to think highly of it to begin with. You’ll say my thermometer had to be off. You’ll tell yourself that, with the clothing I wore, and the fact that I slept on two pads, on snow, inside a double wall tent, you could have done the same in your Antelope or Snowbunting. I mean, they have around the same 30 ounces of high-quality down, right? Right? Well, I’m not so sure you could.

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OutDoor INDUSTRY AWARD | Valandre Immelman – Down jacket | GOLD award

GOLD Winner of Industry AWARD 2011“Valandre Immelman” – Down jacket

Manufacturer: Valandre, Belcaire/France
Design: Valandre, Belcaire/France

Of the 301 product entries, the jury chose a total of 46 to receive an award; eleven of those entries received a GOLD award for special achievement in terms of design and innovation.
Mountain-climbing equipment (An open and difficult category):
A newly developed chamber system prevents the down from sliding around in this jacket. It was specially designed for use in the high mountains at low temperatures to allow for an extremely wide range of movement.
Jury’s opinion: “The right jacket for cold weather in the high mountains. It has been perfectly crafted; there are as few seams as possible and it provides a great fit. A fantastic product for the coldest regions in the world!”

Darek Zaluski in CII on the North Pillar of K2, testing the GOLD awarded Immelman jacket.

Camp II – Darek Zaluski (Poland)

  Darek Zaluski in CII on the North Pillar of K2

Testing the GOLD awarded Immelman jacket.

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